Visit with Stephen Barnard, Winemaker at Keswick Vineyards

Keswick Vineyards

Monticello AVA

Just outside Charlottesville, VA

In September, a friend of mine and I set out to tackle VA wineries and without a doubt our best experience was Keswick Vineyards. 3 or 4 days before the first of the grapes were to be harvested, we had the opportunity to visit with winemaker and general manager Stephen Barnard who, like the rest of the staff at this winery, was ensured we had the best experience possible. Stephen allowed us to pick his brain for upwards of an hour, showing us around the vineyards and winery. 

Keswick Vineyards was established in 2000, and after spending time in there in 2002, South African native Stephen Barnard returned in 2006, as both winemaker and general manager. With a minimal intervention approach to vinification, currently most wines ferment using yeasts naturally present on grapes at the time of harvest, and all reds are bottled un-fined and unfiltered. 

Having been named one of America's Top 100 Most Influential U.S. Winemakers Stephen should also receive an award as perhaps the most welcoming and generous winemaker in Virginia. 

KeswickVineyard Stats:

Established: 2000

Acres: 43

Grape Varieties: 

• Bordeaux Varieties
• Norton (A red grape native to Virginia that Barnard has no problem giving his brutally honest opinion on.)
• Touriga (2 acres of this red Portuguese variety)
• Verdejo (1 acre of this white Spanish variety widely planted in Rueda D.O.

Soils: Clay shale and limestone

Elevation: Low-lying, highest point at 700 ft 

Viticulture: Like most wine regions located on an east coast, Virginia struggles with high humidity and, thus an increased likelihood of disease, however an emphasis in battling this includes minimal use of fungicides and pesticides. While we were here there was a large amount of damage due to pests like squirrels and birds, and there was also grey rot present.

 Onset of GREY ROT: 

Stephen shows the tiny dots or punctures on the grape's skin 

where the fungus's microscopic filaments have created an outlet through 

which water may evaporate. If VA had drier, sunnier afternoons in the summer, perhaps

incredible dessert wines would be made, but because VA is damp and

humid, Noble Rot's unwanted form, Grey Rot sets in, decreasing yields and 

tainting flavors. 

Casually strolling the vineyard explaining his philosophy on both winemaking and grape growing, we all pull a few grapes off the vine to pop into our mouths. Suddenly Stephen spits the mangled carcass of what was a perfectly fine grape on the road to becoming a red wine into the palm of his hand. Lily and I worriedly look to each other to see if we should follow suit. Maybe something was horribly wrong with our mid afternoon snack that could result in sudden death, or had we unknowingly consumed feces? Refraining from continuing to chew as Stephen explained how he predicts the color of a wine, squeezing whats left of the grape between his palm and his thumb. 

 Predicting a Wine's Color in the Vineyard

Stephen explains he's trying the Ballerina vine training system, where the canopy of the vine is allowed to spread out like a too-too, increasing leaves exposure to the sun. 

Ballerina Vine Training at Keswick Vineyards

Eventually making our way into the winery Stephen shows us around. One neat thing about Keswick V.Y.'s is their involvement with their customers. With an phenomenal wine club offering a host of events, including the member's party where the final blend of Consensus is chosen. This red wine's label has the photos of all members backing the winning blend for the year, a blend entirely chosen by wine club members. You also have the opportunity to invest in a new barrel, and get a cut of the wine down the road, as well as a nifty golden plaque with your name.

Why you need to go here:

I by no means am an expert on Virginia wine, but I have been to my fair share of wineries in my home state, and I will say that the level of enjoyment and learning the staff at Keswick deliver to guests has been unsurpassed by any other winery there as far as my experiences go, and without a doubt Keswick Vineyards is my personal favorite winery to take either someone who knows plenty about wine, or needs a boost to jump on the winery-visiting-wagon. They are also dog friendly, and when they are not too busy are happy to show you around beyond the tasting room. Also a beautiful wedding venue, Keswick Vineyards should not be missed on any trip on the Eastern Monticello Wine Trail 

What to Drink:

• Viognier - Their award winning Viognier is not only their most planted grape, but the grape described by Jay Youmans, Master of Wine, as the future grape of Virginia. This is a difficult white grape to grown, and is mostly grown in Northern Rhône. While Virginia is starting to show the world what it is really capable of with this grape, Stephen Barnard's outstanding version has set standards for a number of years. Usually stainless steel tank fermented with a small portion fermented in neutral french oak barrels, this golden colored wine, with intense peach, pear, and subtle white flower aromas, shows just a slight hint of oak. On the palate these wines are almost always a perfect balance of mouthwatering acidity, and creamy smooth texture, as these wines are generally aged on their lee's, or dead yeast, for around 6 months.